The GBSB Sew Along Challenge 1 A-line Skirt, Part 2 Fitting

Wait!  What?  You're not shaped like a fit model with an exact ten inch difference between waist and hip?  Me neither.

The whole reason for a sew along is to make something usable, so unless you are built like the fit model used by the pattern company...deep breath...you're going to have to adjust the pattern to fit your real life body (or whomever you're making the skirt for).  Now, before you start weeping and wailing over the thought of trying to fiddle with a pattern that was obviously made for some industry ideal shape (which, by the way, is so not realistic for most women), let me assure you that a skirt is one of the easiest things to fit----really!

So, big deep breath...and exhale.  Better?  Good.  Let's get started.  I'm going to show you the basics of how I fit a skirt.  But, if you need more help, better instructions, or just want a more indepth fitting reference, I can recommend the books Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto, Pattern Fitting with Confidence (used to be Fitting Finesse, I think) by Nancy Zieman, and The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen.  I've had classes from Marta and Sarah and both are very knowledgeable on this which totally shows in the books.  I've also enrolled in Craftsy's Sew the Perfect Fit class with Lynda Maynard, which so far is quite good.  There are also fitting classes on Pattern Review from time to time, although no skirt ones at the moment.

Choosing a Size

I think this part stumps many people, especially those just starting into sewing clothes.  Pattern sizes do not coorelate to ready-to-wear sizes.  For skirts, I fit into size 6 at most stores (we all know how varied sizing can be between brands), but in patterns I usually range around a 14 depending on the company and cut of the design.  Huge difference!  So first thing to do, toss out of your head any preconceived ideas of what "size" you should be.  You are the size you are, the only reason we care at all is to know how to cut our fabric. 

This pattern gives two sets of measurements--one for your measurements (to choose a size from) and one for the finished measurements of the garment (so you'll know how loose the clothing fits).

To choose a size for skirts, ignore all that fluff about bust measurements, not needed here, go straight to the waist and hip measurements.  Remembering that this is just a starting point, find the ones that are closest to yours (they may be different sizes!) and mark that.  When I'm working with a simple skirt, I usually will opt for the hip measurement even though my waist would indicate a larger size (if your waist is bigger than your hips, you'll want to go with the size which matches closest to your waist measurement) otherwise, I'd find myself swimming in fabric around the hips making an A-line skirt more like a full skirt!  I'm no curvy girl, there's not a huge difference between waist and hip (and there's less now than used to be, lol), so I find it easier to simply adjust the waist area rather than fiddle with the shape and drape of the entire skirt. 

Maybe you fall in between "size" measurements or your waist is bigger than the "size" for your hips.  This is not unusual.

If you want to be able to keep your original intact, then I recommend tracing the pattern pieces first.  I like to use the Tru-Grid by Pellon as it is sewable, drapes more like tissue and fabric, and can be seen through for easy transfer of marks.  (Other great options include Swedish tracing paper, medical exam table paper, tracing paper...)  Once I get the originals traced off in my chosen size, and add seam allowances if needed (hello, Burda--yes, I like to pre-add the seam allowances, because I tend to forget that Burda doesn't have them already in and that makes for some very unhappy discoveries of having cut the sewing line instead), I cut generously around my tracings at the side seams (usually I leave a couple of inches extra).  Then pin along the sewing line.  (If you're using a pattern with seam allowances included, you'll want to mark this out with a pen so you have a reference line to follow.  I like to use a different color just to distinguish it from my cutting line.)  Also, pin any darts or pleats.

Now, carefully try this on over your undergarments (including slip and tights/pantyhose if you wear them normally).  You'll want to have a clip or two to hold the zipper area together so that your hands are free.  Standing in front of a mirror will help you to see any areas that aren't fitting.  Simply unpin those places and repin so that the fit is better.  Around the waist, make sure you unpin and repin in equal amounts for each side.  If the front darts are poofing funny, try taking them out or making them smaller in depth (leave the length as is).  Maybe your back darts need to be deeper (I don't have much of a booty so this is never my problem)  Also, take a look at the side seam and hem--are they straight?  If not adjust by pulling up the front or back a bit.  (By wearing a "belt" of elastic at your waist over the pattern, you'll have a reference for marking a new "waist" when done adjusting.  Mark with a pen prior to taking off the pattern.)  You may need to add width to only the front (or back) rather than both.



Here's a view of some basic adjustments (from Painless Sewing) that you can make.

At this point, I carefully take off the pattern and make a pen mark over each pin that was adjusted.  Now, make these changes to your traced off pattern.  You may need to smooth out the transition from waist to hip or the curve of the waist.  If you made your waist area larger or changed the curve of the waist, don't forget to also adjust the facing to match.

Here's a quick view of the pivot slide method for adjusting skirt width (also from Painless Sewing).

Your adjusted pattern may look a bit Frankensteined with it's additions and adjustments, but that's okay.  The point is to have a pattern that fits you perfectly which you can then use again and again.

You can see that I've added to the width at the side seam once since the original tracing and adjustment and made that same addition to the facing.  Once you've got a pattern that fits you, little adjustments for weight gain or loss are easy to make.

Once you've made your adjustments, you are ready to make your skirt.  If you still aren't sure of your adjustments, you could always make a muslin to test the pattern with real fabric.  This could be necessary if you were using something stiffer to trace your pattern on.  A muslin is also handy if your weight changes (or you're planning to change it) as you can test adjustments to that before making permanent changes to your already fitting pattern.  (I have Crohn's Disease, so regular weight change is a part of life.  Sometimes I only take in or let out a side seam a smidgen, but sometimes I need to make bigger adjustments.  And while I plan on getting into a more toned shape {aka flatten that tummy somewhat} after finally gaining some much needed weight...there's nothing wrong with having a few new skirts in the mean time.)



After some weight gain, I adjusted the pattern and tested those adjustments on my old muslin.  You can see that I still chose to leave the front darts off, but needed a bit more room at the waist for my front piece.  Much easier than doing sit ups!

While fitting the pattern adds an extra step to the process, it is well worth it to have a skirt that is fit at the waist and hips properly and already has the length you want.  Once this is done, you can focus your attention on the fun parts like choosing fabrics, embellishments and style changes!





The Great British Sewing Bee--And a Sew Along!

Recently, some of us in the United States have been introduced to a BBC show called The Great British Sewing Bee.  I love the focus on sewing from an amateur contestant viewpoint.  (Also, the lack of snarky behavior from both participants and judges is refreshing after Project Runway.)  The show only has eight contestants and four episodes, so not a huge time commitment, but lots of fun to watch.  (And, let's be honest...using a fun British accent makes everything more interesting.)

Fortunately, some very thoughtful individuals have put the episodes on YouTube for the rest of us to watch.  (Warning:  The last two episodes have those annoying commercials in them.  Hopefully ones without them will be uploaded soon.)

Episode 1
Episode 2
Episode 3
Episode 4

After watching, I got to thinking.  I've always wanted to try a sew along to Project Runway, but so often their challenges don't really fit into a practical everyday sewist's life.  I mean, really, do I want a dress from the hardware store or men's stripper pants.  Nope.  No way.  But...with this show, the challenges are practical, doable, and can be done within budget.  And I can stand watching the episodes again to get details and inspiration. 

Thus, I've decided to have my very own The Great British Sewing Bee Sew Along, or The GBSB Sew Along.  I'll be taking each challenge in order but adding more time to allow for things like actually fitting the patterns to myself or a victim volunteer model (aka sisters, cousins, etc.), finding the needed clothing for alteration challenges and real life jobs.  I'm also going to try and only use from my stash, but I may need to get notions, linings, or a particular challenge fabric.  It'll definitely push me outside of my comfort zone (fly front trousers, gulp).  You can start any time, so if you're reading this a month from now, don't be shy about joining in the fun! 

Anyone want to join me?

If you do, be sure and join our Flickr group to show off your project photos, and don't forget to grab the button over there on the sidebar.

Butterick 4226: Stars gets a new coat.

Last time I made Stars a coat with Butterick 4226, I made the version with the collar.  This round I made it without so that it'd be reversible.  Both layers are polar fleece with the main layer having an appliqued star and patch sewn to the back. 

Side view with the main side out.  You can see the top stitching for the velcro strips.

This time I used strips of velcro instead of two large pieces, this allows me to adjust the size better.  The appliqued star is stitched with hand sewn blanket stitching and the patch is a military one found on ebay that says "Bring in the wolf".  Kind of fits his personality, lol.  The stitching took forever, but I like the effect.  There's also blanket stitching up where the collar would be at the neckline and on the belly bands.

Fuzzy shot, taken while chasing down a border collie with a camera...not the easiest task!

Okay, a better view.  Very superhero of him.

Stars had lots of fun running around being a superhero, defending the yard from cats, squirrels and the occasional jogger.  He's very conscious of his duties to protect against the forces of evil.

Stars giving his super bark.  Yes, in his mind there's him, Bolt and Superman.  In that order.

As you can see, I skipped adding the binding and instead opted to sew the two main layers together (with the belly bands in place) pillowcase style and then turn right side out.  The blanket stitching at the neck closes the whole thing off.  As the layers are polar fleece, there's no worry about fraying.

You can sort of see how the both the shoulder and belly bands wrap nicely around without getting in the way for movement or potty times.

Using velcro instead of snaps or buttons, not only makes it much easier to put on and fit snuggly, but Stars can also lay in it without any uncomfortable bumps.  By the way, this is the look he gives me when he's had enough of holding still and playing model.

 

B4226 is probably my TNT for Stars.  You can cut both layers, including collar pieces, in less than 30 minutes and, if you skip the binding, you can have one sewn up in less than an hour.  I have a few more already cut and ready for some much needed sewing time on Christmas gifts.

Stars loves this jacket--in fact, he gets very upset if you try to take it off of him!  Which incidentally is why you do not see photos of the reverse side, a lovely, bright multi-star print.  Oh well.

Did I see a squirrel?

Noriko Handbag

I finished two more handbags the other day for the drawing at the Scappoose Historical Society's Spring Tea.  For these two, while using the same fabrics as the one's using the Amy Butler pattern, were made with the Noriko Handbag pattern by Lazy Girl Designs.  I had the extra fabric leftover from the previous handbags so I only had to get buttons, ribbon and canvas. 

The only changes I made during construction were as follows:

1.  I color blocked the cover panels with two coordinating fabrics.

2.  Because I used quilting cotton, I also added a light weight canvas interlining (basted to the lining layer) for more body to each of the four sides.  I added this canvas to the handles as well.  The results were what I was hoping for--stability for a handbag with flexibility in the sides.

3.  I sewed the button onto the front cover layer prior to attaching the lining to the cover.  It just made more sense to sew it on at this point instead of trying to attach it by reaching into the inside of all layers.  I used a small piece of heavy interfacing behind the cover where the button was attached to help provide strength for the closure.

3.  I didn't add a tassel--it just didn't fit the fabric style.

Here's a look at the two finished handbags.

I love buttons (I know, it could probably be classified as a weird obsession) so I had fun finding the perfect ones to coordinate with each fabrics.  The black one has a flower design and raised dots (the sparkly parts) which I felt carried across the dots from the blue fabric and the flowers on the black/white fabric.  The other handbag has a lovely pinkish shade which matches the lighter pink on the floral print and I liked how the shape seemed to have an outer circle and an inner circle like the dots on the fabric used for the upper portion.  I used a black velvet ribbon on the one and a yellow satin ribbon for the other.

Here's a peek at the lining used for each.

I didn't have time before the tea to set these up to show the fullness and shape (okay, I 'fess, I finished these at around 2 am today, tea at 11 am).  So, here's a look at the sides as pressed to create the side creases.  You can see that these little gals will hold all the essentials at around 6" x 9" x 6".

I definitely can say this is a sweet little handbag pattern that you need in your collection--and hey, it's free, so why not print yourself one today and give it a whirl.  (I think in a silk or brocade this would make a lovely evening bag too!)

March Handbag Contest Part 2

Whew, lots of sewing the last few days.  Worked on the Amy Butler Frenchie handbags.  They're almost done!  Here's some images to get caught up...

Step 4C is simply basting over the pleats pinned and pressed earlier on the main panel.  That'll hold 'em in place and get rid of the pins.

Next, Step 5 A-D.  The handles.  Watch out with the iron--it's so easy to burn fingers, especially if you give a little steam shot (ask me how I know).  I folded the handle strips in half along the length, pressed and opened.  Then fold each long side in towards the crease in the middle and press.  It can be a bit tricky to hold and press, but you can use a stiletto to hold the folds down while ironing or pin (just don't run over the plastic pinheads).  Press very well and then fold in half to enclose the raw edges and press, press, press.

The edge stitch along both long sides of each handle strip.  I used an edgestitch foot (has that little metal guide on it) to help keep things lined up.  Take your time, this stitching will show and you want it as straight and neat as possible--in the end though, don't fret if the line isn't exactly perfect.  (Anyone looking that closely at your handbag is probably snooping in it--not looking at your stitches!)

Step 6 A-D is to pin and machine baste down the handles to the main panels.  Keep the ends facing the correct way and you shouldn't have a problem keeping the handle from twisting.  Me, I placed the handles so that the fold edge of the handle strips faced in towards the main panel pleats.

Next, attach the Top Panel with the interfacing to the Main Panels for the front.  Take your time sewing over the handles and pleated parts.  Going a bit slower will help you keep things neat and even when sewing across the various bumps and folds.  (Step 7A)

Here's a closer look at the 1/2 inch seam allowance.

At this point, I like to first press the seam as is, without opening it up.  Its a trick I learned in quilting called "setting the seam" and really helps to make the seams nice and crisp.  Then open and press the seams towards the Main Panel.

You should now have front panels like this.  The handles will naturally pop up towards the Top Panel once the seam has been pressed towards the Main Panel.

At this point, if you want to can skip Step 7B to sew the topstitching later when the fronts and backs are attached.  I went ahead and followed the written instructions to topstitch 1/4 inch below the seam line on the Main Panel.  Again, go slowly so you can keep it straight while crossing the thicknesses of the handles and the pleats.

At this point, I put the outside panels aside (skipping Step 8 for the moment) and went on to Step 9 to sew the non-interfaced Top Panels to the Lining Panels.  These edges have a slight curve to them, just like ones on the outside panels--no worries, just pin and sew carefully--even a total beginner can handle this if they just take their time, it is a very gentle, subtle curve. 

You may see what looks like extra fabric forming folds after it is sewn, this disappears when the seam is pressed towards the Lining Panel.

Here is what the interior linings should look like once pressed.  See how nice and neat that little curve becomes once pressed.

Time to make the pockets!  Step 10A is pretty simple.  Just layer, right sides together, one interfaced Pocket Panel and one non-interfaced Pocket Panel.  Sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance along the top straight edge.

Then (Step 10B) flip the non-interfaced panel over so that both right sides are facing out.  Press so that the bottom curved edges line up and the top seam edge is nice and even.

Finally, for Step 10C, machine baste around the curved edge to secure the panels together.  Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance and if you start to get fabric build up as the foot moves, stop half way around and then baste from the other side towards the middle.  This will help ease out this "extra" fabric and if there is a little bit still giving a slight pucker, it will be at the center bottom and not noticable.

Step 10D, sew the pockets to the lining.  I noticed that you can slightly feel an "edge" created from the seam on the pocket panels.  I preferred to put this side towards the lining panel just to make it less noticable. 

Line up the bottom curved edges and baste one pocket panel to the right side of one of the lining panels.  Repeat for the other one.

You'll be machine basting about 3/8 inch seam allowance so that the basting won't show in the final seaming.  Here you can see how this basting seam is just inside the basting done earlier on the pockets.

At this point, I went back to Step 8 and pinned the two exterior panels (the ones with the handles) with right sides together.  I'll sew them together later.

When I'm sewing, I like to group things together like doing all the pressing at once and then all the sewing.  It helps everything to get done a bit quicker and less setting up and taking down of things like the ironing board.  This is helpful if, like me, you don't have a dedicated sewing room where things can just be left out.  Sometimes, there's no getting around going step by step, but whenever possible, try grouping your tasks and see if you don't get things done in a quicker more organized way!

A Very Special Apron Part 3

Lest you think I've forgotten about Lil' Miss...

After shopping for fabric (which, incidentally, I think should be an Olympic sport ;) ), I found two combinations that will work wonderfully--not too grown-up but not babyish.

Fun, right?  I'll line them both with white cotton that has been laminated (iron-on laminate) so that spills won't soak through onto Lil' Miss, but have it on the bottom layer so that drips just don't run down the front--a great suggestion from ColorKitten over at PatternReview (thank you!).

However, I did need to rethink my pattern layout a bit with this fabric.  I didn't want stains to show up a lot, so the lighter fabrics will be on the lower part and I'll need to extend the darker fabrics for more coverage.  Here are my illustrations of the aprons I have planned.

I kind of merged the idea of a smock apron with some of the Japanese styles that have been becoming so popular in the sewing world these days.  I think they represent a good balance of style and function.  Now to work up the patterns and test them.

March Handbag Contest Part 1

Alright, I officially entered the PatternReview March Handbag contest!  I'll be making a couple of Amy Butler bags for doorprizes (one of each style per week, so four handbags) at the Spring Tea hosted by the Scappoose Historical Society.  I've been wanting to get this pattern for a quite some time, so, lucky me, the theme of the luncheon this year is purses!  Even luckier that the contest comes right at the time I need to get it done!  I probably won't get all four done for the contest, which is only two week (yikes!) but we'll see what happens.

I chose the Amy Butler Frenchy Handbag pattern and the Amy Butler Clutch Purse (this one's a free pattern BTW). 

Here is the fabric chosen for the Frenchy Handbag, which is what I will start with.  I plan on doing both fabric versions at the same time--kind of like an assembly line.  A very short assembly line.

As you can see, I've already cut the pieces and interfacing (Steps 1-2) and stitched the interfacing to the pieces. 

Here's a closer look at the sewn in interfacing.  Step 3A, which has you baste the interfacing to the handles, pocket panels and outer main panels.

Step 3B is to mark a placement dot and then on to Step 4--making the pleats on the main panels (this is one of the little details that makes this such a cute handbag).  Here you can see where I've pinned the pleats into place prior to pressing and machine-basting them into place.

My main panels now look like this.  They have a slight dome to them (due to the stiffness of the Pellon interfacing) at the moment as I still need to press the pleats.

Next step (Step 5) is pressing of the handles and then more sewing.  With only two weeks to complete the handbag (for the contest), I'll have to work quick!

There are lots of free and commercial patterns for handbags out there--so check out the contest rules, snag a pattern and supplies, and join us crazy handbaggers over at Pattern Review for the contest!  I'd love to see you there!