Noriko Handbag

I finished two more handbags the other day for the drawing at the Scappoose Historical Society's Spring Tea.  For these two, while using the same fabrics as the one's using the Amy Butler pattern, were made with the Noriko Handbag pattern by Lazy Girl Designs.  I had the extra fabric leftover from the previous handbags so I only had to get buttons, ribbon and canvas. 

The only changes I made during construction were as follows:

1.  I color blocked the cover panels with two coordinating fabrics.

2.  Because I used quilting cotton, I also added a light weight canvas interlining (basted to the lining layer) for more body to each of the four sides.  I added this canvas to the handles as well.  The results were what I was hoping for--stability for a handbag with flexibility in the sides.

3.  I sewed the button onto the front cover layer prior to attaching the lining to the cover.  It just made more sense to sew it on at this point instead of trying to attach it by reaching into the inside of all layers.  I used a small piece of heavy interfacing behind the cover where the button was attached to help provide strength for the closure.

3.  I didn't add a tassel--it just didn't fit the fabric style.

Here's a look at the two finished handbags.

I love buttons (I know, it could probably be classified as a weird obsession) so I had fun finding the perfect ones to coordinate with each fabrics.  The black one has a flower design and raised dots (the sparkly parts) which I felt carried across the dots from the blue fabric and the flowers on the black/white fabric.  The other handbag has a lovely pinkish shade which matches the lighter pink on the floral print and I liked how the shape seemed to have an outer circle and an inner circle like the dots on the fabric used for the upper portion.  I used a black velvet ribbon on the one and a yellow satin ribbon for the other.

Here's a peek at the lining used for each.

I didn't have time before the tea to set these up to show the fullness and shape (okay, I 'fess, I finished these at around 2 am today, tea at 11 am).  So, here's a look at the sides as pressed to create the side creases.  You can see that these little gals will hold all the essentials at around 6" x 9" x 6".

I definitely can say this is a sweet little handbag pattern that you need in your collection--and hey, it's free, so why not print yourself one today and give it a whirl.  (I think in a silk or brocade this would make a lovely evening bag too!)

March Handbag Contest Part 3 -- Finished!

For those anxiously awaiting the results of my handbag creations, here you go--the final part!

At the last post, we ended with the outer panels ready to be sewn together and the lining panels ready for the magnetic snaps to be attached.  At this point, I did make a modification to the pattern (during Step 10).  For each handbag, I sewed down the center of one of the pockets to create two smaller sections--such as for a cell phone.  To do this, I simply measured the width and divided that in half.  Using a quilt marking pencil (you could use chalk or something, just make sure it doesn't show through) and a ruler, I simply drew a line vertically to follow while sewing. 

Next, I found the placement for the magnetic clasps (Step 11).  To ensure that they would line up, I measured to find the center of each lining panel and measured down from the seam (the one joining the top panel and the lining panel) a 5/8 inch, rather than fold a crease, and made a small dot with a pen.  This is not exactly where the instructions tell you to put the snap, but I liked it a bit lower.  (Just be sure and line the interfacing patch up with where you decide to put the snap.)  I folded the rectangles of interfacing in half and then sewed the end opposite the fold, just to make sure it wouldn't fold up strangely inside the handbag later on.  I then placed the washer that comes with the clasp over the dot, centered and marked the two slots.  I followed this great set of instructions:  Attaching a magnetic snap and this one:  Installing a magnetic snap.  (I did not sew buttonholes as I don't think the stress will be that great on these handbag snaps, but I did add some fray check liquid.)  Please be careful when cutting the slots!  Be sure and fold the snap arms inward and press them down really well (they're pretty stiff, so if you need to use something to help press them down, go ahead).

Here you can see both lining panels with their half of a snap (I did two handbags at a time, so if you also make multiples, double check before attaching that each handbag is getting matching male and female parts!)

Once you've added both halves of the snap, you're ready to pin the linings together to sew.  You should also have the outside panels already pinned.  We'll start with those (back on Step 8B).  Simply stitch 1/2" around the handbag starting at the side of the top panel.  Sew to the dots marked earlier, make a slight pivot to maintain the 1/2 inch seam allowance and continue around.  Take the curves nice and easy, pivot at the next dot and finish at the top of the top panel.  Then follow the instructions about clipping where the dots are--don't clip through the seam!  (I like to stay at least 1/8 inch away from the stitch line.)  Then trim the main panel area seam allowance to about a 1/4 inch.  You don't have to measure it.  I just cut down the center of the seam allowance.

Now sew the lining panels together (place right sides together) with a 1/2 inch seam allowance (Step 12), just like for the outer panels.  One modification though, leave about 5 or six inches at the bottom unsewn for future turning (this is instead of the instructions in Step 13B).

Next, clip and trim just like for the outer panels.

Press the seams open for the Top Panel areas on both the lining section (Step 12B) and the outer section (Step 8C).

Now, turn the outer section so that the right sides of the fabric are out--starting to look like a handbag, isn't it?

Step 13A can be a bit tricky in that you have to stuff the outer part inside of the lining.  (Keep the handles downward so they don't get caught.)  Pin the top edges of the Top Panels together.  You should have the right sides of the lining section facing the right sides of the outer section.  Don't worry if it seems like one big lumpy mess--mine sure did!  Just make sure the side seams are neatly lined up and the raw top edges are aligned.

Now stitch around the entire top (remember, we left an opening at the bottom of the lining section instead).

Now turn the handbag right side out!  Take your time and work it out, it will squish out that opening!

Once you get the entire thing right side out, it'll look like this. 

Because I changed the opening for turning to be at the bottom, I handstitched the opening closed at this point.  I used a sort of modified running stitch with very tiny stitches to keep it from being as noticable.

Give the whole thing a press--mine got a tad wrinkled during turning.  Now, just tuck the lining into the outer section (Step 13C).  Now it looks like a handbag, but there are still a couple of finishing touches.

Once you've got the lining inside, press the edge so that it has a nice clean, crisp fold at the seam.  This will help the thickness of the seam stay put for the finishing stitches.  Next is the second half of Step 13D--edgestitching.  Take your time here, this stitching will show and you want it to look great.  If you have an edgestitch foo, this would be helpful, but it isn't necessary.  Just go slow and keep the line even all the way around. 

At this point, I just smoothed out the Top Panels and lined up the seams that connect the Top Panels to the lower sections for both the lining and the outer.  A few pins will keep the lining from sliding out of place.  Then topstitch over the previous topstitching that is 1/4 inch down from the seam line that connects the Top Panel to the Main Panel.  Start a bit to the right of the magnet snap so that you can sew without a problem and sew until a bit before the left of the other half of the magnet.  Stop and repeat along the other side.

Go nice and slow, handcrank if you need to, in order to stitch exactly on top of the previous stitching.

Give a final press and you and I are done!  Drumroll, please. . .

Handbag 1

Handbag 2

Wish me luck in the contest, there are a lot of great entries!

March Handbag Contest Part 2

Whew, lots of sewing the last few days.  Worked on the Amy Butler Frenchie handbags.  They're almost done!  Here's some images to get caught up...

Step 4C is simply basting over the pleats pinned and pressed earlier on the main panel.  That'll hold 'em in place and get rid of the pins.

Next, Step 5 A-D.  The handles.  Watch out with the iron--it's so easy to burn fingers, especially if you give a little steam shot (ask me how I know).  I folded the handle strips in half along the length, pressed and opened.  Then fold each long side in towards the crease in the middle and press.  It can be a bit tricky to hold and press, but you can use a stiletto to hold the folds down while ironing or pin (just don't run over the plastic pinheads).  Press very well and then fold in half to enclose the raw edges and press, press, press.

The edge stitch along both long sides of each handle strip.  I used an edgestitch foot (has that little metal guide on it) to help keep things lined up.  Take your time, this stitching will show and you want it as straight and neat as possible--in the end though, don't fret if the line isn't exactly perfect.  (Anyone looking that closely at your handbag is probably snooping in it--not looking at your stitches!)

Step 6 A-D is to pin and machine baste down the handles to the main panels.  Keep the ends facing the correct way and you shouldn't have a problem keeping the handle from twisting.  Me, I placed the handles so that the fold edge of the handle strips faced in towards the main panel pleats.

Next, attach the Top Panel with the interfacing to the Main Panels for the front.  Take your time sewing over the handles and pleated parts.  Going a bit slower will help you keep things neat and even when sewing across the various bumps and folds.  (Step 7A)

Here's a closer look at the 1/2 inch seam allowance.

At this point, I like to first press the seam as is, without opening it up.  Its a trick I learned in quilting called "setting the seam" and really helps to make the seams nice and crisp.  Then open and press the seams towards the Main Panel.

You should now have front panels like this.  The handles will naturally pop up towards the Top Panel once the seam has been pressed towards the Main Panel.

At this point, if you want to can skip Step 7B to sew the topstitching later when the fronts and backs are attached.  I went ahead and followed the written instructions to topstitch 1/4 inch below the seam line on the Main Panel.  Again, go slowly so you can keep it straight while crossing the thicknesses of the handles and the pleats.

At this point, I put the outside panels aside (skipping Step 8 for the moment) and went on to Step 9 to sew the non-interfaced Top Panels to the Lining Panels.  These edges have a slight curve to them, just like ones on the outside panels--no worries, just pin and sew carefully--even a total beginner can handle this if they just take their time, it is a very gentle, subtle curve. 

You may see what looks like extra fabric forming folds after it is sewn, this disappears when the seam is pressed towards the Lining Panel.

Here is what the interior linings should look like once pressed.  See how nice and neat that little curve becomes once pressed.

Time to make the pockets!  Step 10A is pretty simple.  Just layer, right sides together, one interfaced Pocket Panel and one non-interfaced Pocket Panel.  Sew with a 1/2 inch seam allowance along the top straight edge.

Then (Step 10B) flip the non-interfaced panel over so that both right sides are facing out.  Press so that the bottom curved edges line up and the top seam edge is nice and even.

Finally, for Step 10C, machine baste around the curved edge to secure the panels together.  Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance and if you start to get fabric build up as the foot moves, stop half way around and then baste from the other side towards the middle.  This will help ease out this "extra" fabric and if there is a little bit still giving a slight pucker, it will be at the center bottom and not noticable.

Step 10D, sew the pockets to the lining.  I noticed that you can slightly feel an "edge" created from the seam on the pocket panels.  I preferred to put this side towards the lining panel just to make it less noticable. 

Line up the bottom curved edges and baste one pocket panel to the right side of one of the lining panels.  Repeat for the other one.

You'll be machine basting about 3/8 inch seam allowance so that the basting won't show in the final seaming.  Here you can see how this basting seam is just inside the basting done earlier on the pockets.

At this point, I went back to Step 8 and pinned the two exterior panels (the ones with the handles) with right sides together.  I'll sew them together later.

When I'm sewing, I like to group things together like doing all the pressing at once and then all the sewing.  It helps everything to get done a bit quicker and less setting up and taking down of things like the ironing board.  This is helpful if, like me, you don't have a dedicated sewing room where things can just be left out.  Sometimes, there's no getting around going step by step, but whenever possible, try grouping your tasks and see if you don't get things done in a quicker more organized way!

March Handbag Contest Part 1

Alright, I officially entered the PatternReview March Handbag contest!  I'll be making a couple of Amy Butler bags for doorprizes (one of each style per week, so four handbags) at the Spring Tea hosted by the Scappoose Historical Society.  I've been wanting to get this pattern for a quite some time, so, lucky me, the theme of the luncheon this year is purses!  Even luckier that the contest comes right at the time I need to get it done!  I probably won't get all four done for the contest, which is only two week (yikes!) but we'll see what happens.

I chose the Amy Butler Frenchy Handbag pattern and the Amy Butler Clutch Purse (this one's a free pattern BTW). 

Here is the fabric chosen for the Frenchy Handbag, which is what I will start with.  I plan on doing both fabric versions at the same time--kind of like an assembly line.  A very short assembly line.

As you can see, I've already cut the pieces and interfacing (Steps 1-2) and stitched the interfacing to the pieces. 

Here's a closer look at the sewn in interfacing.  Step 3A, which has you baste the interfacing to the handles, pocket panels and outer main panels.

Step 3B is to mark a placement dot and then on to Step 4--making the pleats on the main panels (this is one of the little details that makes this such a cute handbag).  Here you can see where I've pinned the pleats into place prior to pressing and machine-basting them into place.

My main panels now look like this.  They have a slight dome to them (due to the stiffness of the Pellon interfacing) at the moment as I still need to press the pleats.

Next step (Step 5) is pressing of the handles and then more sewing.  With only two weeks to complete the handbag (for the contest), I'll have to work quick!

There are lots of free and commercial patterns for handbags out there--so check out the contest rules, snag a pattern and supplies, and join us crazy handbaggers over at Pattern Review for the contest!  I'd love to see you there!